cherry_tree : How to grow cherry tree

Fertilizing Cherries

Control grass or other competing vegetation around the tree for the first few years. A heavy mulch from the tree trunk to the tree's dripline helps conserve soil moisture and control weeds. Fertilize each spring until trees start to bear. Once bearing, cherries need little irrigation or fertilizer in most areas.

If you apply nitrogen to bearing trees, wait until after the fruit has been harvested, but apply it no later than midsummer. This will give the tree a boost toward producing plenty of sugars in its leaves to ripen next year's crop. To prepare the tree (you know, looks like a bush but grows bigger) for winter, it's a good idea to paint tree trunks white or wrap them with white plastic tree guards. Pull mulch away from the trunk and be sure to harden the tree off.

Be on the lookout for problems with pests and diseases. In the southern parts of the tart cherry-growing area, the only worm to infest the fruit is the larva of the plum curculio, which also attacks sweet cherries. The cherry fruit fly may infest sweet cherries and tart cherries are susceptible to black cherry fruit flies. The apple maggot and peach tree borer may also cause problems.

Brown rot and cherry leaf spot affect both tart and sweet cherries. Black knot and powdery mildew are potential problems for some areas.

Prevent birds from decimating your crop with netting, scare tactics, or barrier-type controls.

Harvesting

One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries a year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts. Wait until the cherries turn fully red to harvest them; the sugar content rises dramatically in the last few days of ripening. You'll need to go over the tree (gives great shade on a hot sunny day!) every other day for about a week. Pick the fruit with stems attached, but be careful not to tear off the woody fruit spur, which will continue to produce fruit year after year. If you're using a mechanical cherry pitter, pick the cherries by leaving the stems on the trees. Use these cherries up soon after you pick them because they'll leak juice and may spoil if left out. Using a hand-cranked cherry pitter, you can pit a quart of cherries in 10 minutes.

Strawberries with their attractive foliage, white flowers and beautiful red or yellow berries make an attractive ground cover besides being tasty. Additionally, they require little space as compared to many other fruit bearing plants.

Strawberries are a member of the rose family. They are generally grown as perennials. They generally are productive for 3 to 4 years after that fruit quality and yields generally decline. The herbaceous strawberry plants is composed of a crown, a compressed stem which has multiple stems growing from it, fibrous roots, and three parted leaflets.

Day neutral and June bearing strawberries are usually purchased as plants. Strawberries are normally propogated by runner plants. The crowns may be divided to get new plants but is somewhat more difficult. They may be also grown from seeds but due to varability in the seedlings quality is generally not done. The exception is alpine strawberries which are usually grown from seeds.

Viruses and nematodes can reduce the yield an growth of strawberries greatly. It is recommended to plant virus free and nematode free stock.

Most plants purchased through a nursery have either been cold storage or summer set plants. When planted, they should be located as far away from a previous planting because of possible disease and insect problems especially aphids. Pot grown strawberry plants do have an advantage over bare root plants in that there is less chance of shock when planting.

The first year the flowers and runners should be pinched off to enable better future crops of berries. Though, the one in seven rule may be used to allow for fruit production the first year. This allow 1 out of every seven flowers on the plant to produce a berry with the rest being pinched off. This allows for berry production while having little effect on root development.

For best fruit production, strawberry require full sun with the exception of alpine strawberries which prefer part shade. The soil should have been cultivated for 1 to 2 years before planting to eliminate white grubs esp in areas that were previously lawns and to eliminate weeds from the area. Strawberries should also not follow such plants as tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, peas, beets, raspberries, or blackberries since these plants may serve as hosts for vermicillum wilt or other diseases which can remain in the soil and infect the strawberries. Strawberries while they can grow on a wide range of soil due to their shallow root system grow best on loam or sandy loam soils. These soils provide good drainage but also can supply adequate water and nutrients. Sandy soils or heavy clay soils may be modified by the addition of organic matter to improve drainage and the water holding capicity of the respective soil type. Another alternative to planting on soils with poor drainage is to used raised beds that are 8 to 10 inches high. Strawberries also may be easily grown in containers. Strawberries will generally grow best at a pH of 6.2 but can grow in a range of pHs from 5.5 to 7.0. Below 5.5. Al toxicity is a problem while above 7.0, micronutrients may become deficient.

When you should plant will vary from region to region. In temperate, humid climates, spring planting is generally done. When doing spring planting, use healthy and vigorous plants. If plants can not be plant right away due to cold temperatures store them in a plastic bag at a temperature of 32F. Planting in later summer may also be done. The soil should be rich and well irrigated to get a successful crop, the following season.

In the Northwest, planting may be done between February to June but March or April are the best months to plant. In California, most cultivars may be planted during the summer. In south California, fall planting may be done. When planted too early, yields and quality of the fruit is generally low. Planting too late, results in lower yields but generally good quality berries. Spring planting is generally not recommend for California. Mid-fall is generally a good time to plant strawberries in Florida. In mid-Louisiana, planting may be done as late as November or December and get a good crop the following spring.

There are generally four planting systems which are used to grow strawberries. Matted Row involves allowing the strawberry runners to fill in a single row. The plants are planted 12" a part in rows 3' to 4' apart. The strawberries are allow to form a solid matted row which now has a distance of 15" apart. With the spaced row system, you limit the number of runners per plant to 6 to 8 per plant with a uniform spacing of the daughter plants. The later runners are removed from the plants. The plants are initially planted 12" apart with a row spacing of 4'. Generally, the yields per plant and size of the berries are greater than with the matted row system. This system is often used for cultivars which do not produce a lot of runners. In the ribbon row system, the strawberries are planted 4 to 6" apart in rows 1' foot apart The runners are removed. This results in larger berries but is much more labor intensive. The hill system involves twin rows in which the plants are planted 10 to 12" apart with 1 1/2 to 2' feet between each twin rows. This system is used in CA, LA, and FA. This system results in large plants, large berries, and high yield per plant.

In terms of fertilizing the strawberries, it is best to first get your soil tested to determine what nutrients are available in your soil. If the leaves are dark green and foliage is abundant, generally there is no need for any additional fertilizer. There can be response to nitrogen fertilizer on poor soils or soils low in nitrogen though an excess of nitrogen will result in excessive vegatative growth with little or no fruit production. Nitrogen does help in the formation of new runners. Phosphorous has been shown in soils low in P to increase fruit production. Boron is also applied to certain soils because it is important in sugar formation in the strawberries. The rate is usually 2 lbs per acre. If fertilizer is required the general application rate is 2 lbs per 100 feet of a blanced fertilizer with 12-12-12 is recommended for June bearers or everbearers six weeks after transplanting and in the fall. I also supplement P when the plants began to form flower buds. The second season with everbearers, they should be fertilized after fruit production has been finished. With day neutrals, they should be fertilized monthly with a 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 2 lbs per 100 feet of row.

Everbearer and June bearer require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water (tap or bottled water should not matter unless the recipe calls for one kind) per week while day neutrals require 2 inches of water per week. On sandy soils or during hot conditions, more water per week must be added. It is best to water in the morning to help prevent disease problems.

Companion planting can be done with strawberries. Lettuce and radishes can be grown between the rows since they are quick maturing plants. These plants should be removed before the strawberries set out runners. In warmer regions, beans or cabbage may be grown close to the strawberries due to the longer season. Avoid planting potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants near the strawberries as they can serve as a host for diseases which can greatly effect the strawberries.

Weed control is essential for good production. The weeds can effectively compete for water and nutrients with the shallow rooted strawberries. The weeds should be hand pulled but care must be taken into not damaging the shallow roots of the strawberry plant. Mulches may be used to help prevent weeds from growing around strawberries. Straw, sawdust, and bark may be used as mulches though they may limit N availablility if not aged. Additionally, mulch can create an area where slugs love to live.

In areas where winter are cold, a 6 inch mulch of straw may be used to help protect the plants from frost damage. The mulch should be placed on the plants when the temperature reaches 20F. The mulch should be removed when the soils thaw and temperatures remain above 32F. Avoid straw mulch in areas where winters are mild and rainfall is heavy such as Oregon. The plants may break dormancy and the excessive moisture may cause the plants to rot. In areas with a mild climate where some winter protection is needed a light fabric cover available via mail order or at local nurseries may be used. This allows for water pentration but also allows for protection against the cold. In early spring when the plants have started to grow, sprinkler irrigation may be used to help protect the plants against a late frost. If a late frost occurs the strawberry plants should be covered especially if flowering.

There are several disease that can infect strawberries. Vermicullum wilt(V. alburatrum) cause wilt in midsummer with the outer leaves dying. This fungus can survive several years in the soil. Avoid growing peppers, blackberries, tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes before or where the strawberries are located. Plant resistant cultivars such as Guardian, Surecrop, Silettz, and Catskill. Rotate the area where strawberries are growing every 4 or 5 years.

Red Stele is fungal root disease that occur primarily in the northeastern part of the United States. It results in stunted growth in spring with wilting and dying leaves. The fungus invades the stele of the strawberry causing it to turn dark red with the outer roots looking healthy. To prevent the disease, grow the plants on well drained raised beds and/or choose resistant cultivars such as Darrow, Delite, Earligrow, Totem, Surecrop, Redcheif, Guardian, Tristar, or Tribute.

Leaf spot(Mycosphaerrella fragaria) occurs virtually anywhere strawberries are grown. It is generally characterized by purple or red spots on the upper leaves. Leaf scorch(Diplocarpon earliana) cause dark purple spots on the upper leaves. Leaf Blight(Dendrophoma obscurans) occurs as large red to brown spots with a purple colored margin. Most of leaf diseaes are more common on older fruiting plants. Good air circulation and good growing condition are the best way to prevent this disease from occuring. There are resistant cultivars such as Earlibelle available. If the problem is persistant, start with new plants in an area away from infected area.

Two viral disease are important in strawberries. Crinkle is a virus disease that is common in the Pacific Coast States. Leaves become twisted and distorted. Petioles may be short and the plant will lie on the ground. Yellows(Xanthosis)is a viral disease occuring mainly on the west coast. The plants are dwarf and yellow with the leaves being cupped. The best prevention is to buy certified virus-free plants and to control aphids. Aphids are the primary means of transmitting the virus from plant to plant.

There many insects which can damage strawberry plants. The insects besides damaging the plants may also transmit diseases to the plants. Nematodes which are microscopic worms can cause summer and spring dwarfing. The best solution is to careful inspect nursery stock.

White grubs (Phyllophaga or Lachmosterrea) which are a beetle larvae gridle crowns and feed on roots. Don't plant strawberries in areas where lawn was grown before. Deep rooted legumes can serve as barrier to the white grubs. Beneficial nematodes or bacteria which produce milk spore disease can effectively control the grub population.

Tarnished plant bug is a tiny insect only 1/4 inch long with yellowish and black spots which damages the strawberry flowers. The berries are small and distorted. Look for green nymphs on the plants and spray with a pesticide specific for the insect. Remove and discard the berries. Remove ground cover from around your strawberries since this is where the pest overwinters.

Strawberry leafroller (Anycylis comptana) in its larvae stage rolls the strawberry leaves and feeds within the rolled area causing the leaves to brown. It is common in Canada and east of the Mississippi River in the United States. The adult is a brown moth with light yellow markings. The larvae are pale green to yellow in color. There are some parasites that do attack the insect including Macrocentrus ancylivorous and Spilochalcis albifrons, otherwise pesticides must be used.

Root weevils lay eggs in the flower of strawberries and then munch on the stem of the strawberry plants. The larvae feed on the flower buds and roots. There are four species of this insect that cause the problem. They are strawberry root weevil(Otiorhynchus ovatus), the black vine weevil(O. sulcalus), the rough strawberry root weevil(O rugosostriatus), and the claycolored root weevil(O. singularis). The weevils are widley distributed in the Northern U. S. and southern Canada. All of the weevils are snout nosed beetles with a hard shell body. They range in color from reddish brown to black. The larvae are legless white color body tinged with a pick color with a brown head. They hibernate in woodlands or in fallen foliage so destroying a host area can be a means of control. Also avoid planting strawberries after a lawn. Otherwise, a pesticide specific for the insect may have to be applied.

Strawberry bud weevil(Anthonomus signatus)is found from canada down to Texas. The weevil lays eggs on the strawberry flowers and then girdles the strawberry stem. The larvae eat the strawberry flower buds and destroy them. The adult is a brown snout-nosed beetle with black patches on its wings. The larvae are white stubby curved grubs. Destroy damage buds and remove overwintering foliage. An insecticide sprayed in early spring can give effective control against the pest.

Strawberry Crown Bore(Tyloderma fragariae) is generally more of a pest in the eastern United States. The larvae bore through the crown of the strawberryand feed on the inside of the plant. It may cause the plant to die. The adults may create holes in the leaves to lay their eggs. The adults are a flightless dark brown snouted beetle with 3 dark spots on each wing cover. The white curved larvae have a dark head. Rotating the strawberries helps control the problem as does establishing plantings far away from the infected area. Deep plowing and compacting the soil also helps control this pest.

Strawberry rootworm(Paria fragalariae) is widely distributed throughout the United States and Canada. The adults feed on the foliage while the larvae feed on the crown and roots of strawberries. The beetles are shiny dark brown color with black markings. The larvae are white curved like with three pairs of true legs. Plowing of the soil and keeping the plants away from overwintering areas are the best means of control.

Strawberry Root Aphid(Aphis forhesi) is a pest primarily in the eastern United States. The adult and nymphs both suck the sap from the roots. The blue-green colored aphids also feed on the new leaves of the plant in spring. They also have a strong symbiotic relationship with ants. The ants will herd them from plant to plant and actually protect them. Benficial insects can help control the problem. Pesticides may be required to control both the aphid and ant populations.

Strawberry aphid(Chaetosiphon fragaefolii) is widely distributed in North America and attacks the leaves of strawberry plants. There is often fungal growth associated with it. It has a similar symbiotic relationship with ants and control is similar.

Slugs and snails will often eat holes into the strawberry fruit. They often leave a characteristic slimey trail. It is often best to eliminate dark moist places where they like to stay during the day and then come out at nights to feed.

Harvest strawberries 1 to 2 days after maximum color has been reached for best flavor. Alpine strawberries are the exception with best flavor obtained when they are allowed to stay on the plant until very ripen. Place in a refrigerator immediately after harvesting in a loosely wrap bowl to prevent decay and keep maximum flavor.

Cause: The fungi Monilinia fructicola and M. laxa can incite both a blossom blight, a twig and branch dieback, and a fruit rot of several Prunus sp. including many ornamental and fruit trees. Fungi survive year to year on infected twigs, branches, old flower parts, or mummified fruit. Conidia are produced on infected plant debris in the tree when the temperature is above 40°F. A small, mushroomlike structure (apothecium) can be produced on fruit that drops to the ground. Wind and rain blow spores (conidia and ascospores) to healthy blossoms in spring to begin the infection process during wet weather. Infection will occur for M. laxa above 55°F. Infection may occur at any temperature above freezing with 24 hours wetness. Flowers can be blighted any time floral tissue is exposed but are most susceptible at full bloom. More spores can be produced on this tissue, initiating several more disease cycles during the spring.

Some infections may be symptomless until fruit begins to ripen. Ripening fruit also is highly susceptible to infection, and many more disease cycles can occur near harvest. Peach and nectarine fruit that fall to the ground due to lack of pollination, thinning, or overripeness can significantly increase inoculum and the amount of fruit rot at harvest. Fruit infected in the orchard may not show symptoms until it is in storage or in transit. High nitrogen fertilization also is associated with increased levels of brown rot.

Both fruiting and ornamental cherries, peaches, nectarines, prunes, plums, almonds, and apricots are susceptible. The disease is more a problem west of the Cascades. Surveys of eastern Washington packinghouses during 2000 and 2001 found very little brown rot on peaches and nectarines. Symptoms: Infected flower parts turn light brown and may develop areas of buff-color (M. fructicola) or gray (M. laxa) spores. Infected petals may look water soaked, which can be mistaken for frost injury. Flowers generally collapse as the fungus invades through the pedicel. Infected flowers often adhere to twigs and spurs through harvest or even winter. On peach, the disease continues into twigs or spurs. Lesions may remain discrete or may girdle the twig, causing all distal portions to die. Profuse gumming also may be in these areas. Again, buff or gray spores (in sporodochia) may develop on these necrotic twigs.

Fruit symptoms begin as small, dark spots that enlarge rapidly. Fruit remains fairly firm and dry relative to a watery rot caused by Rhizopus sp. Production of masses of buff-colored spores is equally rapid in the necrotic area. Peaches may have concentric rings of gray sporulation as the rot takes a few days to encompass the entire fruit.

Note zones of gray sporulation on the lowest peach. Rotted peaches mummify and may cling to the tree well into the next growing season.

Blossom infections result in necrotic lesions on the stem. Brown rot of the blossom which results in a twig canker.

Cultural control: These must be supplemented by chemical control methods especially in the wettest areas such as west of the Cascades.

- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches in summer.

- Remove and destroy all mummified fruit in and around the tree (gives great shade on a hot sunny day!) . Cultivating or burying old fruit before the growing season will not reduce the risk of this disease. However, removing fallen fruit (due to thinning or lack of pollination) can significantly reduce the amount of rot at harvest.

- Control insects that could wound and injure fruit.

- Avoid wounding fruit during harvest.

- Cool fruit rapidly after harvest.

- Use moderate amounts of nitrogen fertilizer.

- A short (2.5 min) soak in hot water (122°F) has reduced postharvest decay in nectarines and peaches. Some additives have increased efficacy of this treatment.

- Abound at 12.3 to 15.4 fl oz/A. Alternate with other fungicides. Do not apply more than 4 times/year or 2 sequential sprays. May be applied the day of harvest. Sprayers used for Abound should not be used on apples such as Gala, Cox's Orange Pippin and McIntosh. 4-hr reentry.

- Auxigro WP at 4 oz/A plus a silicone-based surfactant. For blossom blight only. Unknown efficacy in the PNW. 4-hr reentry.

- Botran 75 W at 1.3 to 5.3 lb/A. Do not apply within 10 days of harvest. 12-hr reentry.

- Bravo Weather Stik at 3.1 to 4.1 pints/A. Do not apply after shuck split. Do not use more than 20.5 pints/A/season. 12-hr reentry.

- Captan 80 WDG at 2.5 to 5 lb/A. Applications may be made day of harvest. Hi-Yield Captan Fungicide 50 WP may be used in the home garden at 2 tablespoons/gal water. 24 hr reentry.

- Echo 720 at 3.1 to 4.1 pints/A, for blossom blight only. Do not apply after shuck split. 12-hr reentry.

- Elevate 50 WDG at 1 to 1.5 lb/A. Applications may be made up to and including the day of harvest. Do not use more than 6 lb/A/season. 12-hr reentry.

- Elite 45 DF at 4 to 8 oz/A. Do not apply more than 3 lb/A per crop season. Can be applied up to and including day of harvest. 12-hr reentry.

- Immunox at 0.5 fl oz/gal water. May be applied up to the day of harvest. Do not use more than 7 times per season.

- Indar 75 WSP at 2 oz/A plus a wetting agent. Do not exceed 1 lb/A per season. 12-hr reentry.

- Microthiol Disperss(80% sulfur) at 10 to 20 lb/A. Do not use a spreader sticker. Only slight control; not recommended for use during bloom. 24-hr reentry.

- Pristine at 10.5 to 14.5 oz/A. Do not use more than 2 consecutive applications or more than 5 times/year. Can be used day of harvest. 12-hr reentry.

- Proiconazole-based fungicdes are registered. Limited to 4 applications (2 during bloom and 2 before harvest). May be used up to and including day of harvest. 24-hr reentry.

- Bumper 41.8 EC at 4 oz/A. Do not use on Stanley-type Plums.

- Orbit at 4 oz/A. Do not use on Stanley-type Plums within 21 days of harvest.

- PropiMax EC at 4 fl oz/A. Do not use on Cherry or Stanley-type Plums.

- Rally 40 WP at 2.5 to 6 oz/A. Use Eagle 40 WP at 1 to 1.65 oz/100 gal water for landscape use. Can be applied up to the day of harvest. Not as good as the manufacturer's other DMI-type fungicide, Indar. 24-hr reentry.

- Rovral 4 Flowable at 1 to 2 pint/A. Do not use after petal fall or more than twice per season. 24-hr reentry.

- Scala SC at 9 to 18 fl oz/A. Do not apply more than 3 applications alone, more than 54 oz/A/season, or within 2 days of harvest. Not for cherry—only for apricot, peach, prune and plum. 12-hr reentry.

- Syllit 65 W at 2 lb/A. Blossom blight only. Do not use after petal fall. 48-hr reentry.

- Thiram Granuflo at 3.9 to 5.1 lb/A. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest. Also serves as an animal repellant. 24-hr reentry.

- Topsin M WSB at 1.5 to 2.25 lb/A plus another fungicide with good protection activity. Do not apply within 1 day of harvest. Halt (by ferti-lome) is registered for home use. 12-hr reentry.

- Vangard 75 WG at 5 oz/A. For blossom blight only. Do not apply more than 10 oz/A/season. Tank-mix with another fungicide to improve efficacy and to manage resistance. Buffer to a pH of 5 to 7 when tank-mixing with Rovral. 12-hr reentry.

Notes: Fixed copper prodcuts are registered but due to low level of control are not recommended.

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